The semi-roofed route, that sees many teams grab an ascent in otherwise wet conditions. Start by the large oak tree.
1) 5a, 20m. Move left up the slab towards the break. At the break, traverse left to a crux move getting onto the rib and belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move left to gain the top of the next rib and descend down the other side to a groove.
3) 4b, 15m. More of the same with a quick up one side of the next rib on the left and down the other side. Abseil off here if it is raining since the next bit will be wet.
4) 4c, 10m. Move up the slab on the left to the tree and abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
an interesting route, useful in the wet, as it mainly follows under large overhangs.
1:65ft 5a. Start at the large oak at the foot of the gangway.climb leftwards along the obvious break to reach a short groove. climb this and make an awkward move onto the slabby rib on the left. peg belay.
2: 35ft. 4b traverse awkwardly left across a short slab to another rib and descend the groove on the other side to a small stance.
3: 40ft. 4b. Cross the slab on the left and descend a broken groove to a good ledge below the obvious slab.
4: 80ft. 4c. climb the slab to a tree belay. Alternatively climb the groove until forced onto the slab.
North Wales Rock Graded List, HVS Adventures, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Extreme Girdle, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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