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4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The semi-roofed route, that sees many teams grab an ascent in otherwise wet conditions. Start by the large oak tree.
1) 5a, 20m. Move left up the slab towards the break. At the break, traverse left to a crux move getting onto the rib and belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move left to gain the top of the next rib and descend down the other side to a groove.
3) 4b, 15m. More of the same with a quick up one side of the next rib on the left and down the other side. Abseil off here if it is raining since the next bit will be wet.
4) 4c, 10m. Move up the slab on the left to the tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
an interesting route, useful in the wet, as it mainly follows under large overhangs.

1:65ft 5a. Start at the large oak at the foot of the gangway.climb leftwards along the obvious break to reach a short groove. climb this and make an awkward move onto the slabby rib on the left. peg belay.

2: 35ft. 4b traverse awkwardly left across a short slab to another rib and descend the groove on the other side to a small stance.
3: 40ft. 4b. Cross the slab on the left and descend a broken groove to a good ledge below the obvious slab.

4: 80ft. 4c. climb the slab to a tree belay. Alternatively climb the groove until forced onto the slab.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, HVS Adventures, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Extreme Girdle, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 74
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Gyllion

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Simdde Ddu)