UKH

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The final classic in the trio and the best. The first pitch is nicely intricate and the second is a stupendous jug-haul in a situation normally reserved for routes around three grades harder.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slim groove to its top, then pull slightly right onto the steep wall which leads to a large grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 23m. Pull up leftwards on some good spike holds, arrange gear, then make a long move to more good holds. Hang on here to get some gear in, or move quickly up and right if you are tired, where the gear is easier to place. Climb up and then left on magnificent holds to finish up a corner. The grade of VS 5a is a little deceptive, and those with long arms will probably find it easier than 5a, and those who tire quickly on steep ground may find it harder than VS! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A steep and imposing 2 pitch route straight from the start. Thrilling and exciting. Not for the faint hearted or new to leading VS grades. Good gear all the way. Belay on blocks at the top and possible abseil off.

2 distinct top pitches.The 4b goes up a short wall and then leftwards up a ramp passing flakes to treach base of a shallow chimney. The alternative 5a top pitch works left behind the large flakes before moving back right to join at base of the chimney.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, 2020/21 Trips, Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
spidey 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Led second pitch, think I missed some gear as it felt pretty bold. Good line but not as good as fraticide wall.
βeta?
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βeta: Led second pitch, think I missed some gear as it felt pretty bold. Good line but not as good as fraticide wall.
Peter271263 9 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch felt like 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: Second pitch felt like 5a.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 116
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Direct Route

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)
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