Restricted Access

The lower section of Paradise Wall has many nesting birds and is best avoided in the summer months. The area is also important for breeding seals which are vulnerable to disturbance from September to late October.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers all routes from Pandour Buttress to Moon Buttress inclusive in the Pendower Coves area.

The nesting restriction which previously covered the route Excaliber at Carn Les Boel has been lifted and all routes left (looking in) of Pandour Buttress are now unrestricted.

34m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A splendid, little-travelled foray into beautiful surroundings. Great positions, rock and climbing make this route a must for those searching for solitude on busy days. Birds usually nest on the stance at the top of the pinnacle between March and the end of June (do not climb the route during this period).
Start from good ledges at the base of the approach abseil.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb onto and then rightwards up the wall to a ledge, poor gear. Continue to a belay at the base of a large corner.
2) 5a, 20m. Ascend the steep corner to its end on top of a pinnacle. Climb the steep wall above to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Kernow , Tommy Gunns hitlist

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 9
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queen of the May

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Vellan Head Area)

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