Restricted Access
The lower section of Paradise Wall has many nesting birds and is best avoided in the summer months. The area is also important for breeding seals which are vulnerable to disturbance from September to late October.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers all routes from Pandour Buttress to Moon Buttress inclusive in the Pendower Coves area.
The nesting restriction which previously covered the route Excaliber at Carn Les Boel has been lifted and all routes left (looking in) of Pandour Buttress are now unrestricted.
Rockfax Description
A spectacularly-positioned top pitch that has a couple of very hard moves in its upper reaches. Start on a low ledge, 10m down and right (facing in) of the ledge at the base of the corner on the left-hand side of Paradise Wall.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb the wall to a good ledge. This pitch is easily avoided by a traverse to the belay from the ledge at the base of the left-hand corner of Paradise Wall.
2) 6b, 40m. Move up to a horizontal break and traverse right to a line of cracks near the arete. Climb the line of cracks, moving right below the first overhang to another crack-line. Powerful and technical climbing through the overhangs and up the headwall lead to the top. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 30/Jun/1982.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E5 ticklist , South West in Extremis
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carn Lês Boel Area
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Astral Weeks
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Tintagel Head)