Restricted Access
The lower section of Paradise Wall has many nesting birds and is best avoided in the summer months. The area is also important for breeding seals which are vulnerable to disturbance from September to late October.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers all routes from Pandour Buttress to Moon Buttress inclusive in the Pendower Coves area.
The nesting restriction which previously covered the route Excaliber at Carn Les Boel has been lifted and all routes left (looking in) of Pandour Buttress are now unrestricted.
Rockfax Description
A powerful line with climbing to match. It follows the right-trending crack-line up the centre of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the left-hand corner.
1) 6a, 32m. Climb rightwards to a niche and pull up left to a groove. Climb the groove and long, pumpy crack to a belay below the upper overhang.
2) 6a, 14m. Move up the steep groove and make a hard move out left and up to less-pressing territory and the top not far above.
FA P.Littlejohn, C.King 21.5.1978 © Rockfax
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** West Cornwall , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , South West in Extremis
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carn Lês Boel Area
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Cain
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pordenack Point Area)