USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
Rockfax Description
An adventurous, spectacular and exposed traverse that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress.
1) 22m. Down climb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m and then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again, and then steeply left to the arete and a belay just beyond.
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall to an exposed stance and belay on the arete.
4) 4c, 40m. A wild looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and then left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay.
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. © Rockfax
HVS Adventures , West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Traverses of trady radness , Dan’s Delights , HS-HVS adventures , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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monsteratt | 1 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I went too low on the second pitch beneath the small roof low down and ended up at a good below directly beneath the correct stance. Was able to do a gentle rising traverse to rejoin at the correct belay on the large spikes on the arete. Probably a similar grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I went too low on the second pitch beneath the small roof low down and ended up at a good below directly beneath the correct stance. Was able to do a gentle rising traverse to rejoin at the correct belay on the large spikes on the arete. Probably a similar grade. |
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leadmat | 27 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ran out of time due to wrong ramp descended first, fading light and increasing windchill. Got to third belay area and climbed out. When I feeing brave enough will be back | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ran out of time due to wrong ramp descended first, fading light and increasing windchill. Got to third belay area and climbed out. When I feeing brave enough will be back |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)