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Rockfax Description
A very spectacular and exposed traverse of the Triple Buttress that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress.
1) 22m. Downclimb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again before traversing left steeply to the arete and a belay just beyond.
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall left to an exposed stance and belay on the arete.
4) 4c, 40m. A wild-looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and traverse left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay.
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Traverses of trady radness

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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 23
High 5a
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High 4c
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Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Eyefull Tower (Original Route)

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Cheesewring Quarry)