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Rockfax Description
An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base.
1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America.
2) 5c, 20m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block.
3) 6a, 20m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 15m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Zawn Wall

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)