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Rockfax Description
A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay.
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
mattnuttall 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: If in recent years there were pegs on the middle pitch note they are no more than rusty stains. There are two pegs high in the first corner of top pitch... note that they are soon to be just rusty stains too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If in recent years there were pegs on the middle pitch note they are no more than rusty stains. There are two pegs high in the first corner of top pitch... note that they are soon to be just rusty stains too.

Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tide Master

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Pellitras Point)