Really nice climbing! Climb the short corner to the crux pull for a 'thank god' jug then just romp up to the top.

NB: Rockfall on this route May 06 on easier upper section. Probably no change of grade, but take care.

March 2020: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight. A big fall might dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Significant run out middle section without these for protection.

M. Garthwaite, G. Szuca, G. Campbell.

Ticklists

Central Belt Extremes , Central Belt - Local Classics

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User Date Notes
Devonr28 12 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First E2! Although maybe E1 now with the slightly bigger and lower crimp?
Show beta
βeta: First E2! Although maybe E1 now with the slightly bigger and lower crimp?
Conormcc1991 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I may or may not have pulled the crimp off this route.. Exposing a slightly lower but much better new crimp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I may or may not have pulled the crimp off this route.. Exposing a slightly lower but much better new crimp.
Chris Cook 15 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Crimp has broken off but the hold it has left is bigger so now the route out of the roof is a touch easier
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crimp has broken off but the hold it has left is bigger so now the route out of the roof is a touch easier
Osiris 16 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight (it looks and feels ok until is expanded by a cam). A fall might easily dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Avoiding these cracks removes a lot of the good gear options en route. Someone should trundle them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dangerously loose blocks at half height and near the top (see image). They look like great cam placements, but the cracks expand with cams popping out under bodyweight (it looks and feels ok until is expanded by a cam). A fall might easily dislodge one of these huge blocks, wiping out your pro (and your friend). Avoiding these cracks removes a lot of the good gear options en route. Someone should trundle them.
andi.sco 21 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hold after the crux sounds very hollow and seems to have cracks at the base, take care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hold after the crux sounds very hollow and seems to have cracks at the base, take care!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cambusbarron West Quarry (aka Fourth Quarry)

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 77
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Flying Dragon

Grade: E2 5c ***
(North Third)

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