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Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

The right hand of the two icefalls mentioned in the guide at the north end of the cliff. Often mistaken for North Gully so double check.

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User Date Notes
Steve Bartle 2 Mar Show βeta
βeta: A bit hollow low down, not great for screws. Second half really good
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit hollow low down, not great for screws. Second half really good
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Elastic Jones 7 Mar AltLd O/S Breezy, - thawing fast and running with water....exhilarating.
with Alistair
Breezy, - thawing fast and running with water....exhilarating.
with Alistair
99ster 4 Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Mar -
Coc-ker 3 Mar 2nd Awesome. 3 pitches of ice, most of it pretty good! Unbelievable weather, not a breath of wind and occasionally sunny!
Awesome. 3 pitches of ice, most of it pretty good! Unbelievable weather, not a breath of wind and occasionally sunny!
Hidden 3 Mar Solo rpt
JamesLamont 3 Mar AltLd
with Dave Slade
with Dave Slade
Hidden 3 Mar 2nd O/S
nickcj 3 Mar Lead
Steve Bartle 2 Mar AltLd O/S I lead P1 & P3. Slightly cruddy ice for screws at the start of the first pitch, but steady. Great ice further up. Really sheltered today and got a bit hot!
with Robert.b.s
I lead P1 & P3. Slightly cruddy ice for screws at the start of the first pitch, but steady. Great ice further up. Really sheltered today and got a bit hot!
with Robert.b.s
Jonty Mills 2 Mar AltLd Good climb. First pitch cruddy thin ice with a hollow behind—-care needed. After that delightful.
with Calum
Good climb. First pitch cruddy thin ice with a hollow behind—-care needed. After that delightful.
with Calum
TheaSmea 1 Mar AltLd
with frecro
with frecro
JagoNeath 1 Mar AltLd
with 96bella
with 96bella
frecro 1 Mar AltLd O/S
96bella 1 Mar AltLd Great ice condition
Great ice condition
Hidden 29 Feb 2nd
Ryan23 29 Feb Lead O/S Some good ice, some crud. Water running underneath in places. Ice taking screws where needed.
Some good ice, some crud. Water running underneath in places. Ice taking screws where needed.
tomcreber 29 Feb 2nd O/S
with David Creber, jez_palmer
with David Creber, jez_palmer
jez_palmer 28 Feb Lead O/S
ChrisLewis 27 Feb AltLd Cruddy first pitch but better thereafter. Indebted to the teams ahead of us for breaking trail - stonking effort!
Cruddy first pitch but better thereafter. Indebted to the teams ahead of us for breaking trail - stonking effort!
Auchtubhmor 24 Feb Lead With two students on introduction to Winter Climbing course.
With two students on introduction to Winter Climbing course.
MichaelG 14 Feb Lead O/S My first Scottish icefall. Ice was in poor condition for the first 5m but got consistently better the higher we went. Fun day out with Blas!
with Blas
My first Scottish icefall. Ice was in poor condition for the first 5m but got consistently better the higher we went. Fun day out with Blas!
with Blas
gtaylor997 11 Feb AltLd O/S Brutal walk in and out in deep powder and wind. Route was god fun but not very well frozen at the start. The other pitches were well frozen and took screws
Brutal walk in and out in deep powder and wind. Route was god fun but not very well frozen at the start. The other pitches were well frozen and took screws
Mattia 11 Feb AltLd
nickcj ?? -
VeloVin 11 Feb, 2019 Lead
Hidden 11 Feb, 2019 AltLd
Mark Fairhurst 6 Feb, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Matt Hastings
with Matt Hastings
Schanielawright 5 Feb, 2019 AltLd
with Steven Glenn, Matt Glenn
with Steven Glenn, Matt Glenn
Matthew Glenn 5 Feb, 2019 AltLd O/S Fallback after wind picked up earlier than expected ! Good route. Led 1 and 3
with Ella
Fallback after wind picked up earlier than expected ! Good route. Led 1 and 3
with Ella
naebueno 2 Feb, 2019 2nd O/S First day out winter climbing. Heade dout with Iain Murray who is a pure mountain babe who taught myself and James a lot. He also took us out on the next day for general skill refreshers on the Sunday. Good weekend out on a student winter climbing weekend organised by MCoS,.
First day out winter climbing. Heade dout with Iain Murray who is a pure mountain babe who taught myself and James a lot. He also took us out on the next day for general skill refreshers on the Sunday. Good weekend out on a student winter climbing weekend organised by MCoS,.
Hidden 29 Jan, 2019 Lead
Hidden 10 Mar, 2018 Lead
billymcintosh 9 Mar, 2018 Lead Good ice low down. Rotting from behind in places.
Good ice low down. Rotting from behind in places.
Hidden 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd
partz 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Sophie Gilbert 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Liam Ingram 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jan, 2018 Solo O/S
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 2nd O/S
damondavies 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Took the scenic route to Ben Macdui.
with nickb1
Took the scenic route to Ben Macdui.
with nickb1
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
JWTM 20 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Some excellent ice and some crud.
with Boran
Some excellent ice and some crud.
with Boran
nickb1 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
chris2451 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd
lusonavigator 20 Jan, 2018 2nd First proper ice route. Ian must have felt at home in the Cairngorms. Never seen him that confident.
with pingora
First proper ice route. Ian must have felt at home in the Cairngorms. Never seen him that confident.
with pingora
Hidden 20 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
Chapstick 18 Jan, 2018 Solo
guitarshane 7 Jan, 2018 Lead rpt Perfect for Rachel's first ice route, really nice day
with Rachel
Perfect for Rachel's first ice route, really nice day
with Rachel
mikewilson789 6 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Russell , iain Robertson
with Russell , iain Robertson
BPaske 6 Jan, 2018 AltLd
with Stuart, Phil
with Stuart, Phil
tomchitson 3 Jan, 2018 2nd
guitarshane 3 Jan, 2018 Solo O/S Great fun on good ice and an easy approach
Great fun on good ice and an easy approach
Rosie Henstock 3 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tom Chitson
with Tom Chitson
Captain Solo 12 Feb, 2017 Solo Ditto North Gully
Ditto North Gully
nwakeman 3 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
with Jim Wilson
with Jim Wilson
Hidden 27 Feb, 2016 2nd
Hidden 27 Feb, 2016 Lead
Mark Bull 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd rpt Good ice and hot sunshine!
with Mike
Good ice and hot sunshine!
with Mike
Hidden 20 Feb, 2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
Hidden ?Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
RM199 22 Feb, 2014 Solo O/S in descent ish, weaved around alot.
in descent ish, weaved around alot.
Ste_b1978 17 Feb, 2014 Lead
with Beth H
with Beth H
Hidden 16 Feb, 2014 2nd
Euan Strachan 16 Feb, 2014 - Terrible conditions. Unfrozen turf, unconsolidated snow, some ice (much of it poor).
with Josh R, Emily Tickle
Terrible conditions. Unfrozen turf, unconsolidated snow, some ice (much of it poor).
with Josh R, Emily Tickle
JamesRoddie 14 Feb, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 2014 -
Bob Ashcroft 12 Feb, 2014 Solo O/S
with Kirby
with Kirby
PAJames 7 Feb, 2014 - There was ice under the crusty snow. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/07-02-14-lurchers-crag-cairngorms.htm
There was ice under the crusty snow. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/07-02-14-lurchers-crag-cairngorms.htm
Bob1984 25 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Andrew Broadway
with Andrew Broadway
Peter Metcalfe 22 Jan, 2014 Lead
dav_713 4 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Andy Hague
with Andy Hague
DundeeDave 3 Feb, 2013 AltLd Nice fat ice :-)
with ephraim
Nice fat ice :-)
with ephraim
olekemi 27 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Some confusion, but seems like we climbed this one.
with Mark G
Some confusion, but seems like we climbed this one.
with Mark G
Roberttaylor 19 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S Climbed with Thijs Lubbers as his first winter route, nice condition despite the powdery walk in.
Climbed with Thijs Lubbers as his first winter route, nice condition despite the powdery walk in.
The Big Sender 19 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
Webster 21 Dec, 2012 Solo O/S thought it was north gully, having done north gully beofre thinking it was central gully!
thought it was north gully, having done north gully beofre thinking it was central gully!
morsy 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd intended to do n gully but think we did this instead - along with many others! good first pitch
with gerhard mors
intended to do n gully but think we did this instead - along with many others! good first pitch
with gerhard mors
Hidden 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd
morsg 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with morsy
with morsy
Mark Bull 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Good alternative to queueing in North Gully!
with Al
Good alternative to queueing in North Gully!
with Al
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 1 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
vincentvega ?Jan, 2009 AltLd
with danny robb, dan goodwin
with danny robb, dan goodwin
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sparkler

Grade: III ***
(Sgor Gaoith (Gleann Einich))