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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

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Ticklists

Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs, Winter 2018 Dreamlist, Winter 2018/19, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 29 Jan Lead
sgl 28 Jan AltLd
with Tom
with Tom
Shaw Brown 18 Jan AltLd
with loz01
with loz01
HimTiggins 22 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Dave Menadue
with Dave Menadue
innes 21 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
team fat belly 21 Dec, 2019 AltLd In good condition after an overnight freeze but gear needed excavating and a challenging first pitch.
with Innes
In good condition after an overnight freeze but gear needed excavating and a challenging first pitch.
with Innes
Ryan23 15 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
with BPaske
with BPaske
BPaske 15 Dec, 2019 AltLd
with Ryan23
with Ryan23
Hidden 9 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Dec, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd
Hidden 30 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S
Outcome Unknown 17 Nov, 2019 -
Hidden 10 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S
Ali D 10 Nov, 2019 AltLd O/S Top pitches still had some tricky climbing in the lean conditions
with Rob, willbris3
Top pitches still had some tricky climbing in the lean conditions
with Rob, willbris3
Hidden 16 Mar, 2019 2nd
Flavio 16 Mar, 2019 Lead crux P1+2 only in a oner.
crux P1+2 only in a oner.
Samuel Wainwright 19 Feb, 2019 Lead O/S
CRead 9 Feb, 2019 2nd dnf
harry_lewis 9 Feb, 2019 Lead O/S deep powder, first pitch took 2hrs to lead - traumatic. abbed off
with CRead
deep powder, first pitch took 2hrs to lead - traumatic. abbed off
with CRead
J.Panczuk 20 Jan, 2019 Lead
with A.Bukowski
with A.Bukowski
MC 19 Jan, 2019 AltLd
with Phil Whitfield
with Phil Whitfield
ConorWalter 4 Jan, 2019 - lean
with Culann
lean
with Culann
Andy Nisbet 3 Jan, 2019 - The start was hard!
with Jonathan Preston
The start was hard!
with Jonathan Preston
Culann ? Jan, 2019 AltLd
with Mitty
with Mitty
septic ??, 2019 -
Seons 23 Dec, 2018 2nd
andymcronald 20 Dec, 2018 2nd Great route in good condition. 1st pitch certainly the crux.
with Guy Steven
Great route in good condition. 1st pitch certainly the crux.
with Guy Steven
CMoore 15 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S Good with lots of interest
with joeflan
Good with lots of interest
with joeflan
joeflan 15 Dec, 2018 2nd O/S
with CMoore
with CMoore
iainballantyne 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd
with WillHempstead, Mairi
with WillHempstead, Mairi
WillHempstead 9 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Found starting the route the hardest bit. Excellent climbing but glad to be on second for first two pitches. Good leading from Dave and Paul. Got the third pitch which was a short snow slope and the cornice. It’s a bit runout to get over the crumbly cornice ice - vertical swimming with axe hands and crampon feet.
Found starting the route the hardest bit. Excellent climbing but glad to be on second for first two pitches. Good leading from Dave and Paul. Got the third pitch which was a short snow slope and the cornice. It’s a bit runout to get over the crumbly cornice ice - vertical swimming with axe hands and crampon feet.
David Kay 23 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Cracking route in great condition. Loved leading P1 and glad I didn’t get the sketchy cornice top out - good effort Matt!
with Lumbering Oaf, Paul Scott
Cracking route in great condition. Loved leading P1 and glad I didn’t get the sketchy cornice top out - good effort Matt!
with Lumbering Oaf, Paul Scott
Naomi Havercroft 21 Feb, 2018 2nd
with Gareth Davies
with Gareth Davies
Jasc 11 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Buttress plastered, gear needed sniffing out. Conditions decent - medium ice quality.
with Paul
Buttress plastered, gear needed sniffing out. Conditions decent - medium ice quality.
with Paul
Roberttaylor 2 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
ladislav 2 Jan, 2018 2nd O/S Tried to lead pitch 2, but chose a bad line and had to back off. Snow was all unconsolidated powder, and our kit got buried in spindrift on the belays! I thought this was significantly harder than Hidden Chimney Direct, but that could have just been the conditions.
Tried to lead pitch 2, but chose a bad line and had to back off. Snow was all unconsolidated powder, and our kit got buried in spindrift on the belays! I thought this was significantly harder than Hidden Chimney Direct, but that could have just been the conditions.
Karl_Harrison 19 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 3
with Neil
Pitches 2 and 3
with Neil
calumhicks 12 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Adam Harris
with Adam Harris
James Gordon H ? Nov, 2017 -
Hidden 17 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 5 Jan, 2017 AltLd Quite a challenging first 10m in lean conditions and lovely climbing above.
Quite a challenging first 10m in lean conditions and lovely climbing above.
Elastic Jones 5 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Hard crux for Steven...
with Steven Andrews
Hard crux for Steven...
with Steven Andrews
seanhendo123 4 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Felt pretty sluggish on the walk in, I got first lead and felt even worse once climbing, a lot of swearing and grovelling got me up the crux then the rest was easy, zero points for style! Good line but not great climbing over all
with Lamb
Felt pretty sluggish on the walk in, I got first lead and felt even worse once climbing, a lot of swearing and grovelling got me up the crux then the rest was easy, zero points for style! Good line but not great climbing over all
with Lamb
Hidden 4 Jan, 2017 AltLd
nickdonohue 2 Mar, 2016 AltLd Good climbing, but a harsh tough day with maelstrom conditions on the face and very cold. Fortunately hardly any wind once topped out and a night-nav back.
with Tom Lawfield
Good climbing, but a harsh tough day with maelstrom conditions on the face and very cold. Fortunately hardly any wind once topped out and a night-nav back.
with Tom Lawfield
jpc1 18 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 18 Feb, 2016 AltLd
stub1990 6 Feb, 2016 -
with Adam Gregg
with Adam Gregg
Adamski1986 6 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Good route!
Good route!
Hidden 31 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
jpc1 6 Jan, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jan, 2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
hamish2016 13 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with Tom Ripley
with Tom Ripley
Robertgiddy 12 Dec, 2015 Lead Traversed off after the hard first pitch due to fading daylight. The pitch is quite pumpy but has good positive hooks.
Traversed off after the hard first pitch due to fading daylight. The pitch is quite pumpy but has good positive hooks.
Hidden 12 Dec, 2015 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 11 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S A late start after travelling up from Cheshire. I led 1st pitch which I thought was nails in the lean conditions, felt more like V,6. Steve came up second on a very tight rope. Abbed off due to impending darkness.
with Steve Grove
A late start after travelling up from Cheshire. I led 1st pitch which I thought was nails in the lean conditions, felt more like V,6. Steve came up second on a very tight rope. Abbed off due to impending darkness.
with Steve Grove
CaelanB 21 Nov, 2015 2nd First route of the season, the route was in perfect conditions. I can't imagine the weather being much better than it was!
First route of the season, the route was in perfect conditions. I can't imagine the weather being much better than it was!
Pina 14 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S One of the few routes in nick.
One of the few routes in nick.
Brian Pollock 14 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S Good first route of the season
with Joe
Good first route of the season
with Joe
rob16 11 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Matt Brook
with Matt Brook
Mark Stevenson 28 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
robpartridge 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Harry Wickham
with Harry Wickham
Little AndyH 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jan, 2015 AltLd
Steven Carter ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
prwalker 29 Dec, 2014 AltLd Excellent conditions, cold, clear and sunny. Led a tricky first pitch, with crux and chimney, well frozen turf further up where it widened out. Second and third pitches led by Rob, including a run out section at the top to a powdery cornice. Great views across a windy plateau. Triggered a small slab release from wind-blown build up on the western descent back to the lochan - lucky is wasn't worse and a timely reminder to be mindful of changing conditions throughout the day.
with wupert
Excellent conditions, cold, clear and sunny. Led a tricky first pitch, with crux and chimney, well frozen turf further up where it widened out. Second and third pitches led by Rob, including a run out section at the top to a powdery cornice. Great views across a windy plateau. Triggered a small slab release from wind-blown build up on the western descent back to the lochan - lucky is wasn't worse and a timely reminder to be mindful of changing conditions throughout the day.
with wupert
Hidden 29 Dec, 2014 AltLd
GordonAinslie ??, 2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??, 2014 -
AidanMorris 7 Dec, 2013 AltLd
robgixer ? Dec, 2013 AltLd
oliverk 23 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
with Zoe
with Zoe
BillyBurnside1 9 Nov, 2013 AltLd
mikecollins 9 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf Bailed after pitch 1 - conditions were bad and unsuitable.
with manmike
Bailed after pitch 1 - conditions were bad and unsuitable.
with manmike
Hidden 9 Mar, 2013 -
jonnie3430 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Steep and hard start, followed by a powder swim and lots of pulling up onto powdery ledges. I think Carol enjoyed herself leading her first cornice...
with Will, Carol
Steep and hard start, followed by a powder swim and lots of pulling up onto powdery ledges. I think Carol enjoyed herself leading her first cornice...
with Will, Carol
Carol Goodall 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Great climb with a steep start and interesting steps all the way up. Was very snowy so glad to be on second most of the way but tackled a tunnel-like cornice to finish off.
with Will Taylor, jonnie3430
Great climb with a steep start and interesting steps all the way up. Was very snowy so glad to be on second most of the way but tackled a tunnel-like cornice to finish off.
with Will Taylor, jonnie3430
PAJames 13 Jan, 2013 - http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/13-01-13-coire-lochain-cairngorms.html
http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/13-01-13-coire-lochain-cairngorms.html
alasdair19 ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Captain Solo 11 Dec, 2012 AltLd Struggled a bit on the initial crack but got there in the end. Some useful ice on 2nd pitch but gear hard to find, easy neve romp to finish. Great top out with the setting sun.
with Barry
Struggled a bit on the initial crack but got there in the end. Some useful ice on 2nd pitch but gear hard to find, easy neve romp to finish. Great top out with the setting sun.
with Barry
Hidden 19 Nov, 2012 AltLd
annep 3 Nov, 2012 2nd
with Joris
with Joris
Hidden 3 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Nov, 2012 -
BallsOfSteel 27 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
connor 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd β closer to IV 6 than tech 5 on the day. crux very aqward and pretty pummpy
with willey
closer to IV 6 than tech 5 on the day. crux very aqward and pretty pummpy
with willey
Hidden 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd
SWalls 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd
with Sinclair Cooper
with Sinclair Cooper
Brannock 28 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S with greg, more sustained than the guide book suggests, crux definitely first pitch bit next two had there moments pulling over bulges, scary steep snow at the top. Busy day in Lachain as well, teams on virtually all the classic grade 6/7 mixed routes and even a film crew.
with greg, more sustained than the guide book suggests, crux definitely first pitch bit next two had there moments pulling over bulges, scary steep snow at the top. Busy day in Lachain as well, teams on virtually all the classic grade 6/7 mixed routes and even a film crew.
steev 27 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
andybuckley 27 Jan, 2012 AltLd Cool route. First couple of bulges pretty hard, then easier above. The final line of The Crack in the headwall looks like it'd make an awesome finale for those capable of it.
with Steve Crawford
Cool route. First couple of bulges pretty hard, then easier above. The final line of The Crack in the headwall looks like it'd make an awesome finale for those capable of it.
with Steve Crawford
Hidden 26 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S
Edvin m 26 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Keith-Getoutadventures 14 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
geoff.comley 15 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S Nice climb, bit rushed due to it being second route of the day, climbed second pitch through cornice in dark, very atmospheric! :/ Nice first pitch though.
Nice climb, bit rushed due to it being second route of the day, climbed second pitch through cornice in dark, very atmospheric! :/ Nice first pitch though.
Andrew Wilson 3 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S P1 then mark led to below the cornice where i climbed through to top. Tony full of cold so stayed on second.
with Mark Schmude, Tony Womersley
P1 then mark led to below the cornice where i climbed through to top. Tony full of cold so stayed on second.
with Mark Schmude, Tony Womersley
Brucemacrosson 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Brilliant route in v. good night. Simon put in a blinder of a lead on the 1st pitch.
with Simon Opit
Brilliant route in v. good night. Simon put in a blinder of a lead on the 1st pitch.
with Simon Opit
John Workman 6 Feb, 2011 Lead Soooperb nick. Three stars on the day.
with Chris D
Soooperb nick. Three stars on the day.
with Chris D
Mr Powly 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
tom.e 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Pete Graham 30 Jan, 2011 AltLd
with Mr Powly, Tom Everett
with Mr Powly, Tom Everett
Big Lee 23 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S White-out made it difficult to find the crag. Somehow zigzagged underneath them all and summited onto the plateau to the West. We then followed the summit ridge back to the Couloir and descended this to eventually find our route. Quality route in good condition. Led 2nd & 4th pitches. Enough gear placements where required on the first pitch but virtually none after that. Climbing was steady enough from this point onwards however.
White-out made it difficult to find the crag. Somehow zigzagged underneath them all and summited onto the plateau to the West. We then followed the summit ridge back to the Couloir and descended this to eventually find our route. Quality route in good condition. Led 2nd & 4th pitches. Enough gear placements where required on the first pitch but virtually none after that. Climbing was steady enough from this point onwards however.
Hidden ? Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
jonnybull ? Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Sam
with Sam
Timo Austino ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 13 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Nov, 2010 AltLd
andymoin 13 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
with adw07, American Scot
with adw07, American Scot
Hidden 29 Mar, 2010 AltLd rpt
michael83 29 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Ian Jones 9 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S Definitely at least V in the conditions. A lot of snow and not all of it was that secure. Pitch 1 awkward and a bit sketchy. Pitch 2 at least 4 with a fall factor of 2 a distinct possibility, therefore V. Pitch 3 mostly II with nay gear but a V 4 through the cornice. Great finish in the dark. Great leads from Jason and Dan.
with Drexciyan, jazzyjackson, Jason Moffat
Definitely at least V in the conditions. A lot of snow and not all of it was that secure. Pitch 1 awkward and a bit sketchy. Pitch 2 at least 4 with a fall factor of 2 a distinct possibility, therefore V. Pitch 3 mostly II with nay gear but a V 4 through the cornice. Great finish in the dark. Great leads from Jason and Dan.
with Drexciyan, jazzyjackson, Jason Moffat
Hidden 9 Mar, 2010 AltLd
jazzyjackson 9 Mar, 2010 AltLd Headtorch finish and borderline epic.
with Dan, Ian Jones
Headtorch finish and borderline epic.
with Dan, Ian Jones
abbeywall 13 Dec, 2009 AltLd led 2
with K, FM
led 2
with K, FM
jameshiggins 12 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S Awkward start which wasn't holding much ice. Otherwise a beautiful day and perfect conditions.
with Hebe
Awkward start which wasn't holding much ice. Otherwise a beautiful day and perfect conditions.
with Hebe
Greg Boswell 8 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ? Dec, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2009 2nd β
Hidden 26 Jan, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 8 Jan, 2009 AltLd dnf
timmy-ts ??, 2009 -
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??, 2009 -
simon_D 13 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S Guidebook lies, the 2nd pitch is hard enough and has an interesting/head scratcher step up to the big wall! Good mixed route.
with Roger C
Guidebook lies, the 2nd pitch is hard enough and has an interesting/head scratcher step up to the big wall! Good mixed route.
with Roger C
nakedave 6 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with adamsky
with adamsky
Hidden 6 Dec, 2008 AltLd
maxf 2 Nov, 2008 2nd dnf Did the first three pitches got dark and abseiled off. A rather hard introduction to scottish winter climbing. Need to consolidate at II/III then work back up to this grade and be able to lead at this level!
with Helena EUMC
Did the first three pitches got dark and abseiled off. A rather hard introduction to scottish winter climbing. Need to consolidate at II/III then work back up to this grade and be able to lead at this level!
with Helena EUMC
Neil D ? Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
TrollJester ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Hidden 21 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
Neil D 21 Dec, 2007 AltLd
AndyP 2 Dec, 2007 AltLd dog I pulled on gear - twice! I should grade this route IV,5 A2. Lack of fitness and first route of the season, plus the difficulties being getting off the ground and therefore with big decking potential, led to me holding gear. Didn't use my tools until the second hard section. Not much snow build up, deeper snow would make the route easier. Decent weather but snow not frozen, corrie full of folk. Pitch 3 had two awkward steps, tech. 5, that are not in the guide so I suspect we were off route. Late finish.
with Will
I pulled on gear - twice! I should grade this route IV,5 A2. Lack of fitness and first route of the season, plus the difficulties being getting off the ground and therefore with big decking potential, led to me holding gear. Didn't use my tools until the second hard section. Not much snow build up, deeper snow would make the route easier. Decent weather but snow not frozen, corrie full of folk. Pitch 3 had two awkward steps, tech. 5, that are not in the guide so I suspect we were off route. Late finish.
with Will
Hidden 2 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
simonw1 18 Feb, 2007 2nd O/S
with Nick and Steve
with Nick and Steve
timmy-ts ??, 2007 -
mikecopp 18 Dec, 2006 AltLd
with Alex M
with Alex M
Dangerous Dave 8 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
with Neil Batchelor,Time Rose
with Neil Batchelor,Time Rose
oor wullie 8 Dec, 2006 AltLd Last climb with neil. We won't forget you.
with Dave Cowan and Neil Batchelor
Last climb with neil. We won't forget you.
with Dave Cowan and Neil Batchelor
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 27 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S
tompercy 1 Feb, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 1 Feb, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2003 -
Hidden ? Feb, 2002 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ? Jan, 2002 AltLd
with Barry ?
with Barry ?
DaveHK 23 Dec, 2001 Sent
with Steve Wells
with Steve Wells
tompercy ? Feb, 2000 AltLd
with Martin Jackson
with Martin Jackson
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Richard Weller 13 Dec, 1999 -
with Nick Cruden
with Nick Cruden
Andy Clark 18 Oct, 1998 2nd
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Hidden 18 Oct, 1998 Lead O/S
Neil McA H 15 Feb, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Constantin Latatusu, Jerry Hadwin
with Constantin Latatusu, Jerry Hadwin
CMacD ??, 1995 -
Hidden 23 Nov, 1993 Lead O/S
jlury 15 Jan, 1992 2nd Melting and wet. Fell off.... in old guidebook this was grade III. flippin eck it was desperate. glad to see it is now IV 5/6.
with Wolfgang Klein
Melting and wet. Fell off.... in old guidebook this was grade III. flippin eck it was desperate. glad to see it is now IV 5/6.
with Wolfgang Klein
phil64 ? Jan, 1992 Lead
with Giles p
with Giles p
Yourlead 27 Mar, 1990 2nd
with Graham Penny
with Graham Penny
Hidden ??, 1989 -
mark-abz 17 Feb, 1988 Lead
with Andy W
with Andy W
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
ajtay ??, 1987 -
with Alan Thomson
with Alan Thomson
rob from scotland ??, 1987 -
Hidden 23 Nov, 1986 AltLd
Hidden 26 Feb, 1984 Lead
Bob 28 Dec, 1982 AltLd O/S my second winter route in Scotland. Was given grade III at the time.
with D. Geere
my second winter route in Scotland. Was given grade III at the time.
with D. Geere
Derek Ryden 19 Mar, 1975 Lead dog Peg for aid on the first pitch. Spindrift pouring down face. Exit cornice 20 feet of vertical mush - desperate!
with George Backshall
Peg for aid on the first pitch. Spindrift pouring down face. Exit cornice 20 feet of vertical mush - desperate!
with George Backshall
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 36
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fingers Ridge

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)