UKH

Rockfax Description
A true mountaineering outing that takes on the ridge that ascends to the spectacularly-positioned 'Table' and then continues to the top of Cyfrwy itself via more exposed and interesting climbing. Although very popular and well travelled there is still a good amount of loose rock that requires careful handling especially if there are parties below. From Llyn y Gadair go up scree to the left of a band of cliff and then make a long traverse across scree and grass above it to the start of the climb. .
1) 30m. Climb an arete and then move right to climb a corner. Belay above the corner at an easing in angle.
2) 20m. Continue with care up the blocky arete to The Table.
3) 10m. Awkwardly down climb to the notch and then go left to a belay next to a pinnacle.
4) 18m. Climb the rib above the pinnacle via good cracks and holds to a belay at a small pinnacle and ledge. A magnificently-positioned pitch.
5) 14m. Climb up onto a big ledge and then up a steep wall via a right to left weakness to a large belay ledge.
6) 25m. Move along the ridge to a short chimney that leads up past some wedged blocks to easier ground.
7) 200m. Scramble up the easier section of arete, mainly on its left, to the top. © Rockfax

OG Jones 18/May/1888.

Ticklists

Top ridge scrambles of Britain , Sunny Side Up , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , I want a Pasty! , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , 2021 , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Wales with M , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jeremy Wilton 7 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Be very careful of the loose blocks... especially in the notch and just before the scramble.
βeta?
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βeta: Be very careful of the loose blocks... especially in the notch and just before the scramble.
Itsthegasman 2 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, pitch after notch super exposed but great holds.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic route, pitch after notch super exposed but great holds.
Purple 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A great route and easy to follow the description. Pitch 2 is loose and requires care but is an easy scramble. The wedged blocks above the short chimney on pitch 6 are definitely best avoided, as is the chimney itself - bypass on the left is easy. Other pitches are overall solid and of high quality.
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βeta: A great route and easy to follow the description. Pitch 2 is loose and requires care but is an easy scramble. The wedged blocks above the short chimney on pitch 6 are definitely best avoided, as is the chimney itself - bypass on the left is easy. Other pitches are overall solid and of high quality.
chrishunt55 31 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a lot of loose rock, especially if you stray off route. The other rope team we were with pulled off a person sized rock which completely cut their rope. Miricle no one was hurt.
βeta?
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βeta: Quite a lot of loose rock, especially if you stray off route. The other rope team we were with pulled off a person sized rock which completely cut their rope. Miricle no one was hurt.
ClimbingNut 6 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pinnacle is missing from the notch after the table.
βeta?
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βeta: Pinnacle is missing from the notch after the table.
Adam.Caine 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The route is very loose, care should be taken for building belays, placing protection, and general climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route is very loose, care should be taken for building belays, placing protection, and general climbing.

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Guidebooks for Cadair Idris - Penygadair

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Votes cast 79
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pinnacle Rib Route

Grade: D ***
(Tryfan)

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