UKH

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
Easier and better than Raisin Frumpsnoot, but it still packs a big punch. Maybe 7b for the tall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Right of Forsinain Motspur, thin and continuous moves up the wall, good!

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Top class slate sport 7b-8a , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+ , AMC Uni Ticklist , North Wales 7b and 7b+ starfest! , Slate Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 22 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First time I dogged up this I was thinking was it 7b, and is this likely the hardest climb I have ever done? 2 'rounds' of cranking, huffing and puffing it was looking pretty dire. 3rd go, clean, composed! Blew my mind. Beta dialled in. Need to come back and lead this. Its a very cool route. Certainly learned a fair amount about my abilities in climbing. My first 'real' project on slate. P.S. I think slate is now my favourite!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First time I dogged up this I was thinking was it 7b, and is this likely the hardest climb I have ever done? 2 'rounds' of cranking, huffing and puffing it was looking pretty dire. 3rd go, clean, composed! Blew my mind. Beta dialled in. Need to come back and lead this. Its a very cool route. Certainly learned a fair amount about my abilities in climbing. My first 'real' project on slate. P.S. I think slate is now my favourite!
richiebongo 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Struggling with some of the moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Struggling with some of the moves.
ebutton 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Writing a huge 'FOOT' in chalk with an arrow to a hold is surely excessive?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Writing a huge 'FOOT' in chalk with an arrow to a hold is surely excessive?

Logged Ascents

212 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 65 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rock Bottom Line

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Twll Mawr)

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