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8m.

Rockfax Description
Fingery (often wet) moves on small sharp holds lead to the base of the easy upper crack. Many variations exist - the upper wall on the left is VS 4c if you use the arete and at least a couple of grades harder if you don't! A direct start to this is f6A. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Townsend 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Consolidation and developmental path to VS

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User Date Notes
link 9 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I climbed as suggested in Peak Grit East and no way is it VS 5a. As Michael Hood says the older guidebooks tell you to climb the face just to the left of the crack. Time to go back and try that way me thinks!
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βeta: I climbed as suggested in Peak Grit East and no way is it VS 5a. As Michael Hood says the older guidebooks tell you to climb the face just to the left of the crack. Time to go back and try that way me thinks!
MNA123 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this quite a few times and the moves below are def 5a, more of a boulder problem though then a route as its over when you reach the big crack.
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βeta: Soloed this quite a few times and the moves below are def 5a, more of a boulder problem though then a route as its over when you reach the big crack.
Iggy_B 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: VS 5a felt about right, quite steep but big holds.
βeta?
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βeta: VS 5a felt about right, quite steep but big holds.
Swig 4 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The Froggatt guide gives it 'at least E1' if you avoid the crack/arete.
βeta?
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βeta: The Froggatt guide gives it 'at least E1' if you avoid the crack/arete.
Michael Hood 27 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The description in older guides used to have this finishing up the wall to the left of the upper crack - this made it truely VS 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: The description in older guides used to have this finishing up the wall to the left of the upper crack - this made it truely VS 5a.
Offwidth 25 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Looking at the votes for this have depressed me. Can anyone give any logical reason why a few 5a moves to a break and a junction with a well protected Severe crack climb could possibly be a VS??
βeta?
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βeta: Looking at the votes for this have depressed me. Can anyone give any logical reason why a few 5a moves to a break and a junction with a well protected Severe crack climb could possibly be a VS??
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Jugtastic, do yourself a favour and solo it you'll only get pumped placing the gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Jugtastic, do yourself a favour and solo it you'll only get pumped placing the gear.
Paul Boardman 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Another pleasant Burbage solo. It felt a little commiting after the initial hard moves.
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βeta: Another pleasant Burbage solo. It felt a little commiting after the initial hard moves.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 85
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Mutiny Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Burbage North)