UKH

167m, 7 pitches. Prestigous Scottish mountain classic with all that entails. Together with The True Finish this gives a monumental outing.

R. Smith, A .Fraser Jun/1958.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Robin Smith Legacy , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Summer Trip 2014 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Hard Rock 2020 , World Class Britain & Ireland , Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts) , Hard Rock 2020 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , A.P's summer

Feedback

User Date Notes
AlonsoATCO 15 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 wet (but climbable) on 13/08/22 despite the heat-wave.
βeta?
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βeta: Pitch 2 wet (but climbable) on 13/08/22 despite the heat-wave.
michiarn 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Pegs not even worth clipping anymore but protectable otherwise anyways. Not that bold if you bring some microcams.
βeta?
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βeta: Pegs not even worth clipping anymore but protectable otherwise anyways. Not that bold if you bring some microcams.
Nathan Adam 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: All of the pegs and in situ gear mentioned in the guidebook or on here are shite and not turstworthy, although most of it can be backed up. Needing a good clear out.
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βeta: All of the pegs and in situ gear mentioned in the guidebook or on here are shite and not turstworthy, although most of it can be backed up. Needing a good clear out.
Misha 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The in situ cam on the crux of P2 seems to be in an ok state. Can be backed up by a gold offset. The pegs are indeed rubbish (the one on P2 is just a way marker). P2 is currently dry enough - didn’t have to use any wet holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The in situ cam on the crux of P2 seems to be in an ok state. Can be backed up by a gold offset. The pegs are indeed rubbish (the one on P2 is just a way marker). P2 is currently dry enough - didn’t have to use any wet holds.
andrewrobertmuddiman 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: UKC user comments on state of in situ gear are accurate, it’s poor - especially low down.
βeta?
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βeta: UKC user comments on state of in situ gear are accurate, it’s poor - especially low down.
MichealMurphy 29 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The (small) overhang at end of pitch 4 does exist. It's avoided on its left side using a small corner.
βeta?
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βeta: The (small) overhang at end of pitch 4 does exist. It's avoided on its left side using a small corner.
CMcBain 8 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: P2 almost completely dry currently.
βeta?
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βeta: P2 almost completely dry currently.
Robertgiddy 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Believe the SMC Glen Coe guide has some errors. The "Climb the overhanging corner above" at the end of p4 doesn't seem to exist, and the tech grades for the last two pitches are the wrong way round (based on personal experience and G Latter). Latters description seems better but id split his pitch 5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Believe the SMC Glen Coe guide has some errors. The "Climb the overhanging corner above" at the end of p4 doesn't seem to exist, and the tech grades for the last two pitches are the wrong way round (based on personal experience and G Latter). Latters description seems better but id split his pitch 5.

Logged Ascents

202 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 37
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Decadent Days

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tollie Crag)

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