Rockfax Description
A popular expedition that scales the large pinnacle situated up and to the right of the approach path. Start about 10m up and right of the base of the pinnacle.
1) 4a, 18m. Head up the gully briefly to where a traverse line leads back leftwards towards a wide crack. Balance left to the crack, then make some delicate moves up the narrowing crack to gain a belay at a ledge and boulder.
2) 4a, 25m. Stand on the boulder and make worrying moves right to gain the chimney-crack. Head up this to a sorry excuse for a tree. Using the stump for hand and footholds, make your way up to a bay just below the top. From here climb the left wall to the top of the left tower and belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| funtime | 25 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across | βeta? | |
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βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across |
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| GrahamUney | 6 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle. |
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| surferdude7 | 8 May, 2022 |
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βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off. |
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| gcombe | 21 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bowderstone Crags
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Segeant's Crag Gully (summer)
Grade: S ***
(Sergeant Crag)