Rockfax Description
A popular expedition that scales the large pinnacle situated up and to the right of the approach path. Start about 10m up and right of the base of the pinnacle.
1) 4a, 18m. Head up the gully briefly to where a traverse line leads back leftwards towards a wide crack. Balance left to the crack, then make some delicate moves up the narrowing crack to gain a belay at a ledge and boulder.
2) 4a, 25m. Stand on the boulder and make worrying moves right to gain the chimney-crack. Head up this to a sorry excuse for a tree. Using the stump for hand and footholds, make your way up to a bay just below the top. From here climb the left wall to the top of the left tower and belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

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User Date Notes
JamesM 15 May Show βeta
βeta: Bring your gardening gloves, guide says Diff, glad its been upped to S4a, makes sense now. Good decent, lots of fixed tat to ab down (if you are happy or bring a backup).
βeta?
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βeta: Bring your gardening gloves, guide says Diff, glad its been upped to S4a, makes sense now. Good decent, lots of fixed tat to ab down (if you are happy or bring a backup).
Ab Wilson 5 May Show βeta
βeta: 3 stars for pitches 1 and 2 but should loose a star for pitch 3 which involves a dodgy down climb on mossy rock over a death drop followed by 2 moves up on slime then 6 meters of fern climbing. Then you are faced with a decent which probably warrants as high a technical grade as the climb but on more dubious rock and equal exposure. Should have taken the abseil after pitch 2. Borrowdale guide gives it VDiff.
βeta?
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βeta: 3 stars for pitches 1 and 2 but should loose a star for pitch 3 which involves a dodgy down climb on mossy rock over a death drop followed by 2 moves up on slime then 6 meters of fern climbing. Then you are faced with a decent which probably warrants as high a technical grade as the climb but on more dubious rock and equal exposure. Should have taken the abseil after pitch 2. Borrowdale guide gives it VDiff.
funtime 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across
βeta?
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βeta: Description is wrong belay on ledge on the arête then up to dead tree and to top on right then stride across
GrahamUney 6 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle.
βeta?
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βeta: This description isn't right. From the small bay above the dead tree you climb the Pinnacle on the right, then stride across the gap to the top of the Buttress on the left. Also, the better belay ledges are on the flat block on the Arête at the end of the traverse on pitch one, with the second belay stance in the small bay below the Pinnacle.
surferdude7 8 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off.
βeta?
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βeta: A tricky decent off the back of the pinnacle but found a large tree to absail off.
gcombe 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress
Show beta
βeta: Current guide book gives this VD and I'd agree. Climbing the pinnacle direct requires the use of v small holds, easier to bridge as high as possible before moving across. Jumping appears to be an act of lunacy so a sketchy down climb is required before climbing up to belay on the left hand butress

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Guidebooks for Bowderstone Crags

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High HS
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High HD
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Low HD
High D
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Votes cast 40
High 4b
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High 4a
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Votes cast 5
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
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Route of Interest
Kestrel wall

Grade: S 4a ***
(Eagle Crag (Grisedale))

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