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36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic crack-line which is sustained, athletic and protectable all the way. Start 10m right of the big corner below the line.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the crack and strenuously gain an overhanging corner which leads to the fault-line.
2) 5b, 18m. Pull through the roof above and move up to another one. Step right and over the roof then continue up the right-hand of two grooves. At the top step left to an exit scramble. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 4.9.1971. FFA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley 1977.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Cool Names, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User Date Notes
ian bryant 13 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
βeta?
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βeta: seems sensibly graded at e2 5c to me - very strenuous to get through the first roof with moves that certainly felt a grade harder than the many other 5bs i've done at swanage. the 2nd pitch continues quite steeply too and is never VS as suggested above!
daveycrocket 19 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree with Kevin above, its easier than expected, and theres surprisingly good foot ledges on the left. Great line but only E2-5B.
kevin stephens 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
βeta?
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βeta: ANother route that should be enjoyed as one long pitch, providing you use 60m ropes, all this about knee pads (see above and Chris Craggs book) is not the best way to climb the crack, step out R and get in position to layback it. Even better than many 3 star routes at Swanage.
ap 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: felt about that to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: felt about that to me

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High E3
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Route of Interest

Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)