Loading Notifications...
35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An incredibly intimidating line that requires good route finding on the second pitch, which snakes through the upper overhangs. Start 7m right of a large roof-capped corner.
1) 5a, 16m. Pull up through bulges to a rest above. Climb rightwards to an arete, then move around it to a corner that ends at the fault-line and a belay.
2) 5b, 19m. Climb the wall on the left, past a small overhang, then move right to below a roof. Pull strenuously through the roof at a break to a corner. Follow this to a final overhang which is passed on its left side. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. P.Bell, T.Goodfellow 11/Jul/1963.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed Babs 19 Oct Show βeta
βeta: P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1
mutt 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first pitch I found to be fairly straight forward and well protected - no idea where the friend 2/5 mentioned in the guidebook is suposed to go but I got in plenty of good protection. Found the second pitch to be disturbingly loose. I only seemed to be able to get cams and wires in behind hollow blocks. I'd give it a 5b and E1 for scariness on grounds of loose rock which it has plenty and tricky routefinding. fortunately the top has been tidied up this year so there are 2 stakes and a nice comfortable walk off. The top out is still horrendously loose though so be careful.
Different Steve 23 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sounds like 2nd pitch is only 5a if you go the right way (doh!). Pulling through the middle of the 1st roof in the 2nd pitch was 5b/5c finger jamming - my 2nd said 5a if you sensibly pull over to the left and then step back right.
El Greyo 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Thought the top pitch was pretty hard going over the overhang - it requires a tough layback to get over. I would say E1 5a, 5b. The route (and walk off at the top) would probably benefit from a bit more traffic which it deserves to get. The mid-height belay smells of rotting fish due to a recently abandoned nest at the moment. Made me feel quite nauseous.

Logged Ascents

183 users have logged this
68 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Spook

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)