The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A quality route. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder, as for Dune Dust.
1) 5b, 25m. Head right for 5m then make a hard move upwards past a pinnacle block to a ledge. The groove above leads, with difficulty, to the faultline. Place good gear then tackle another groove that gains a large belay ledge on the left.
2) 4c, 15m. Step right and climb the groove past a ledge to reach an exit corner. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth, FFA. Pat Littlejohn 16/Sep/1967.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)