Loading Notifications...
40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
jtree03 3 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady.

Logged Ascents

87 users have logged this
19 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)