The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear where you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, and beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the faultline.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep and hard moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975.
West Country Climbs , SW Climbs - Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jtree03 | 3 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady. |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)