Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
In 2014 a major rockfall destroyed the original start of what was a classic VS. The first pitch is now a lot harder but still worthwhile. Start below the left-hand end of the low overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, then move out right to the hanging arete and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a tiny corner leading up to the faultline.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the tiny corner to the faultline and make a strenuous traverse right along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge. Finish up a short steep corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.

Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arĂȘte and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arĂȘte.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.

FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
Storey1991 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you.
βeta?
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βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you.
Iain Weymouth 25 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s.
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βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s.
ClimbingAlex 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
walshieboy 5 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traverse of the Gods

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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