50m, 3 pitches. The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.
Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arête and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arête.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.Feedback
Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arête and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arête.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.
FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.
Ticklists
SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| ClimbingAlex | 12 Jul |
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that. | βeta? |
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that. |
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| walshieboy | 5 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch | βeta? |
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch |
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Route of Interest
The Spook
Grade: E1 5b ***(Guillemot Ledge)