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50m, 3 pitches. The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.

Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arĂȘte and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arĂȘte.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.

FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.

Ticklists

SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

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User Date Notes
ClimbingAlex 12 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that.
walshieboy 5 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
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Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
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Route of Interest

The Spook

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Guillemot Ledge)