The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
In 2014 a major rockfall destroyed the original start of what was a classic VS. The first pitch is now a lot harder but still worthwhile. Start below the left-hand end of the low overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, then move out right to the hanging arete and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a tiny corner leading up to the faultline.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the tiny corner to the faultline and make a strenuous traverse right along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge. Finish up a short steep corner. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch is now much harder after a major rockfall in January 2014.
Start below the left-hand end of the low-level overhangs on the seaward face of Marmolata Buttress, where an open corner is capped by a small roof at 12m.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner for about 8 metres, move out to the hanging arĂȘte and climb it until just below the level of the roof. Move diagonally right up a crack to reach the large ledge, below a small corner leading up to the fault line.
2) 4b, 8m. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arĂȘte.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner.
FA. Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely, Bob Mott 11/Jan/2014.
SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Storey1991 | 13 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seaguls nest half way up 3rd pitch. Very distracting. May attack you. |
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Iain Weymouth | 25 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best avoided atm as 2 angry gulls are nesting at the start of P3. Very good route with harder than expected P2 and P3. First time climbed since 90s. |
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ClimbingAlex | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Initial corner is a bit sandy and some of the rock is a bit suss. However, there's good gear to make up for that. |
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walshieboy | 5 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Now graded at E1 5b for the first pitch |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)