Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

46m, 3 pitches. The first pitch has been destroy in a large rockfall. Reclimbed on 11/01/2014 and graded E1 5b.

FA. Barry Annette, P.Kemp 1963.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
soph 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves.
Andy Hobson 10 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route.
GrahamD 8 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around.
Filou 2 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS???

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 104
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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