Loading Notifications...
46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The best VS in Boulder Ruckle. Well protected, but at the very upper limit of the grade. Start on a ledge below a large sentry box.

1) 5a, 18m. Climb up until a move right can be made to the base of a crack in the right wall of the sentry box. Climb the crack and pull right to an easing at the right-hand side of the overhang above. Follow the steep crack to a ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 10m. Move right along a foot-ledge to a short vertical crack. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete.
3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first pitch has been destroy in a large rockfall. Reclimbed on 11/01/2014 and graded E1 5b.

FA. Barry Annette, P.Kemp 1963.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
soph 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We thought the first brilliant pitch was def worth hvs, also thought the traverse pitch was much harder than 4b and also quite unprotectable, last pitch had enjoyable moves.
Andy Hobson 10 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd love to watch a VS leader try and lead this first pitch. Easily HVS and nudging 5b. The 2nd pitch is tough too. 3rd pitch is more straightforward. All round excellent route.
GrahamD 8 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a brilliant route for a strong party and one of the toughest VSs around.
Filou 2 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route.. Very hard first pitch, nice traverse but fantastic last pitch (agree 4c). BUT is it really a VS???

Logged Ascents

251 users have logged this
45 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 103
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Freda

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)