Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

40m.

Rockfax Description
A big wall pitch just right of Elysium with some fine, bold face work. Start as for Elysium. Climb the initial crack, then move right to a spike. Move up then launch up the blank, shallow groove to the faultline (peg) - bold. Climb direct to another peg, then move left to a thin crack and the finish of Brisingamen. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 24/Jul/1983.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a brilliant route which follows a strong line up the main cliff. I disagree that it is very bold in the shallow groove. In fact it is quite well protected with lots of wire placements just before the crux. Sure, your feet are above the gear when the crux moves are done, but it is steady climbing. Once the break is reached there is more good gear and the climbing is quite straight forward to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a brilliant route which follows a strong line up the main cliff. I disagree that it is very bold in the shallow groove. In fact it is quite well protected with lots of wire placements just before the crux. Sure, your feet are above the gear when the crux moves are done, but it is steady climbing. Once the break is reached there is more good gear and the climbing is quite straight forward to the top.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bare Reputation

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Cave Hole)

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