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2 pitches. Take the steep corner crack to the right of the usual starting groove of Lightning Wall. Large gear useful for the upper section under the faultline, where the crack widens. Reasonable protection with sustained climbing. Gain the faultline and move right onto the wall above the roof (placing good protection) before traversing rightwards on good holds to the arĂȘte. Follow the arĂȘte to a niche, old peg, move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. This gives a slightly harder alternative start for the lower pitch of Lightning Wall.

NB. This was the original start to Elysium done by Rich Crewe on the FA (which can also be started this way before move right at the faultline.

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Route of Interest

Jo

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)