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30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe and team 16/Jun/1968.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cdubs 14 Oct Show βeta
βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner
βeta?
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βeta: The route of the first pitch is more obvious in the Rockfax book than the app. May be due to the different angles they were taken? The app would have you go too far right and miss the pull into the corner
Graeme Hammond 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If using the CC guide follow the description and aim for the groove above the belay, dont traverse right where tbe topo line is drawn this is wrong!
Owen W-G 23 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two stakes at top, a nesting gull half way up and a shipwreck at the base.
Neil Adams 7 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Did it in late evening and had to search around for ages to find the belay stakes, but found them eventually, just at the edge of the thorny stuff. I thought the first pitch was actually harder than the second - what should have been the crux was fine once I committed to it.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 65
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Behemoth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)