The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the faultline. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 07/Jan/1968.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Cool Names , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kevster | 1 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible. |
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Chris_Tee | 16 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question! |
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Kyuzo | 27 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)