The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A good route that maintains interest throughout. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back them up. Start at a small corner behind the highest boulder. Move up the right-leaning corner for 5m, then pull straight up through the bulge to gain a horizontal break. Climb the thin black streak above (two pegs) to the main faultline. Move right and up through a bulge to a corner. Climb up and leftwards around an arete to enter and finish up a corner. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, J.Preston 05/Sep/1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Climber_Bill | 13 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder. |
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tomrainbow | 18 Jun, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer. |
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)