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35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route that maintains interest throughout both its pitches. The pegs are old but there is good gear available to back them up. Start below an overhung, right-leaning corner.
1) 6a, 25m. Move up the right-leaning corner for 5m, then pull straight up through the bulge to gain a horizontal break. Climb the thin black streak above (2 pegs) to the main fault-line. Move right and up through a bulge to a corner and a stance.
2) 4c, 15m. Climb up and leftwards around an arete to enter and finish up a corner. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, J.Preston 05/Sep/1986.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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User Date Notes
The Jazz Butcher 13 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic first pitch and the second is short but still good. Personally felt the pegs on the first ptich looked quite corroded in the cracks; might take a fall, might not. Although their condition does not make the climbing harder, it makes the route a bit bolder.
tomrainbow 18 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent first pitch with fantastic rock on the crux wall - the section above the fault is tricky to begin but soon eases, this would be a three star route if the difficulties went on for longer.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Melpomene

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)