Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A magnificent climb up the narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets the third star for the beauty of the line, the climbing itself being just a touch dirty. Climb the corner-crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left to the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.1969. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.1978.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| j_w_j | 14 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: awesome route, done in one pitch! fell from the last hard move... twice... if anyone gets the red wild country out from the jam round from the roof let me know | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: awesome route, done in one pitch! fell from the last hard move... twice... if anyone gets the red wild country out from the jam round from the roof let me know |
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| Chris_Tee | 16 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Big route in every way! Felt tougher than a number of supposed E3's done at Swanage recently. If you can jam solidly the headwall crack is steady 5b, if not it's 5c and a different animal altogether. The sandiness of the lower corner will detract from the quality of the route for some but I felt it added to the adventure feel of the climb which is what it's all about at the end of the day. Epic route! |
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| Climber_Bill | 25 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Both pitches are very different, but provide varied and interesting climbing all the way to the top. Felt the first pitch was probably 5b and the second pitch 5c, though both very well protected. This is definately a Swanage 3 star classic! |
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| Kyuzo | 28 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Overrated? No way! I thought it was absolutely superb! An awesome experience, especially at sunset. |
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| kevin stephens | 7 May, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dont sent your VS leader mate up the first 4C pitch, more like E1 5a!, top pitch is ok at E2 5b, a fight but very safe. Stars for the line, exposure and position, not so much for the climbing experience |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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The Conger
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)