Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well travelled and solid route.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb a scoop just left of the big boulder, then move leftwards around a roof. Traverse 8m back right to a corner and slab. The slab leads to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 18m. Climb to an overhang, traverse 3m right and pull over. Continue to the top and an earthy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Titt, J.Thornby 24/Oct/1971.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , SW Climbs - Swanage , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Budge 18 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Possible to traverse in from the left (at a slightly higher grade - or was that just me?) and join the route below the roof, if the sea makes access impossible. Great Route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possible to traverse in from the left (at a slightly higher grade - or was that just me?) and join the route below the roof, if the sea makes access impossible. Great Route

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 30
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Behemoth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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