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40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax

FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
jtree03 2 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 52
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)