Rockfax Description
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax
FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| jtree03 | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. | βeta? |
|
Show beta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. |
|||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Traverse of the Gods
Grade: HVS 5a ***(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)