Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A well-protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. Make tricky moves left around an arete to a belay ledge at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Climb the corner past a bulge, then follow the steep cracks to exit rightwards via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax
FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , Ultimate HVS ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Routes for MCI , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| danimal88 | 9 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 14 fenceposts from forst wall takes you to the top of bohemoth | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 14 fenceposts from forst wall takes you to the top of bohemoth |
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| jtree03 | 2 Jan, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: OK, the corner is VS-ish, but the move around the arete is definitely worth 5a/b. What a stance! Pitch 2 simply brilliant, gently impending but stacks of gear. |
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Logged Ascents
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Jo
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)