The best VDiff in the West Country. Although protection is always at hand, the exposure, sections of down climbing and the traversing nature of the route call for all party members to be competent at the grade. Slings are very useful. Start at a belay ledge just before the arete.
1) 25m. Move left around the arete to a ramp above the zawn. Move along to a corner at the end of the ramp. Climb the wall on its left on good holds, left and then back slightly right, to beneath a vertical crack. Climb the crack on superb holds to a belay on the ridge.
2) 10m. Move along the easy-angled ridge to a belay at the base of an open corner that forms a chimney at its top.
3) 18m. Climb the corner and chimney to a belay under a neb.
4) 16m. Move up left to beneath the neb, and then make a traverse left through a large gap and climb down to a belay at a col. © Rockfax
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