Rockfax Description
Wildly exposed moves in an outrageous location mark out the top pitch of this intimidating line. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 5a, 30m. Follow the line of weakness rightwards for around 10m until a direct line can be taken past a groove, ledge and corner to a stance on the arete at a large block - the Pedestal stance. The left arete of the Coal Face can also be climbed to the stance and belay, at the same grade.
2) 5b, 28m. Climb up a thin crack in the Coal Face to the first overhangs. Traverse left and move up a groove to a slab that leads to below the upper overhangs. Make committing and very exposed moves out rightwards to a sudden easing and a stance just above.
3) 10m. The easy wall above to the top. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Pre-departure , Cornwall 2021 , South West in Extremis , Cornwall
User | Date | Notes | ||
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notthatcolerobertson | 16 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: FOUND: some gear (nuts and slings) below the roof on the ghost. Message my Instagram (notthatcolerobertson) if this is yours. | βeta? | |
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βeta: FOUND: some gear (nuts and slings) below the roof on the ghost. Message my Instagram (notthatcolerobertson) if this is yours. |
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Gordon W | 17 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: The peg in the roof has snapped, the route is still completely safe though | βeta? | |
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βeta: The peg in the roof has snapped, the route is still completely safe though |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lands End)