UKH

39m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant find which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating though and you need a confident second. To get to the start, abseil down the right (looking out) side of the headland to a ledge at the base of a huge curving corner. From here, climb a steep crack above on the left wall - usually a bit slippery, sometimes very wet. Pull over the bulge and squirm out onto the hanging slab. Tip toe delicately right across this until you can climb round the roof on its right-hand side. Wander easily to the top from here. © Rockfax

FA. P.Donnithorne, S.Doerr 12/Apr/1997.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS, Orange Spot Pembroke, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans

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User Date Notes
John Alcock 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Always climb it in the afternoon after the sun has been on it, ideally with a westerly wind to dry the whole route. As the description says a competent, confident second is essential. If they fell off on the traverse, they would probably need to prussic out.
Owen 10 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could be a good route but it was soaking wet from seepage and it hasn’t rained in weeks. If it’s wet now, I’m not sure when it’ll be dry.

Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 32
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Surge Control

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)
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