UKH

39m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © Rockfax

FA. B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham, C.Heard 29/Jun/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), James' Summer Ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
fammer 8 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Take micro wires
Show beta
βeta: Take micro wires
Fiend 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A very nice E3 slab when done with the CC-authorised original start. Everything is just great on this route from the intricate start to the well-positioned finish, and it's all pretty relaxing too.
βeta?
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βeta: A very nice E3 slab when done with the CC-authorised original start. Everything is just great on this route from the intricate start to the well-positioned finish, and it's all pretty relaxing too.
GDes 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: never even close to E4. steady away E3. aBsolutely brilliant route/
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: never even close to E4. steady away E3. aBsolutely brilliant route/
John Alcock 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Many south west climbers' first E4 on-sight. The gear is good but slightly spaced. Take some RPs/small wires for the crux. One of my all time favourite climbs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Many south west climbers' first E4 on-sight. The gear is good but slightly spaced. Take some RPs/small wires for the crux. One of my all time favourite climbs.

Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 70
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pan

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Lydstep Cavern Bay)
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