A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful! © Rockfax
FA. B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham, C.Heard 29/Jun/1980.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside), James' Summer Ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
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