Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

13m.

Rockfax Description
A nice preamble leads to a final difficult sequence. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 08/Aug/1988.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
ZacMoss 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Clip the peg, you'll log some serious air miles if you don't.
βeta?
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βeta: Clip the peg, you'll log some serious air miles if you don't.
Paul Sagar 11 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not a great route. Poor bolting and totally sandbagged at the top. Not the warmup you are looking for
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a great route. Poor bolting and totally sandbagged at the top. Not the warmup you are looking for
monkey man 23 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: the top move at the final bolt is totally nails and a move way harder than one would expect to find on a 6b. Rest is steady.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the top move at the final bolt is totally nails and a move way harder than one would expect to find on a 6b. Rest is steady.
Wayne.Gaudin 3 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: One hard move high up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One hard move high up.
Wilbur 23 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: fairplay to anyone that led this pre-bolts! That top move is fierce. I've not found a stopper move like this on any other 6b to date. Wouldn't have been out of place on a far harder graded route...
βeta?
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βeta: fairplay to anyone that led this pre-bolts! That top move is fierce. I've not found a stopper move like this on any other 6b to date. Wouldn't have been out of place on a far harder graded route...
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the previous comments fail to understand the routes history, first done with the one peg to a clean top out. The current route has none of the aura of the original, which fealt as bold as many grit E5's
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the previous comments fail to understand the routes history, first done with the one peg to a clean top out. The current route has none of the aura of the original, which fealt as bold as many grit E5's
Richard Horn 9 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this route was really nice until I clipped the peg and went for the final moves up to and past the lower off - much harder move than you would expect for a 6b route. Also dont look down until you have clipped the first bolt!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this route was really nice until I clipped the peg and went for the final moves up to and past the lower off - much harder move than you would expect for a 6b route. Also dont look down until you have clipped the first bolt!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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