Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
The wall right of Cute Ass direct to a slim finishing groove and headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Gibson, Gordon Jenkin 15/Sep/2004.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good varied climbing which will become even better when traffic gets rid of the odd crumbly bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good varied climbing which will become even better when traffic gets rid of the odd crumbly bit.
nealh 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A cracking pitch which doesn't let up, and underrated like most of the other routes on this section of cliff
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A cracking pitch which doesn't let up, and underrated like most of the other routes on this section of cliff

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Opposites Attract

Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)

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