11m.

Rockfax Description
The photogenic arete. Climb steep ground on pockets to an easing midway up the arete. Move up and step left to finish up the crack pulling back right to the lower-off. Climbing directly up the right-hand side of the arete is a thin and fingery 6b+ variation finish. © Rockfax

FA. D.Glover 25/Jul/1996.

Ticklists

Portland, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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User Date Notes
omniscient_penguin 2 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A great climb with solid holds all the way up to that last section, but boy, am I relieved to see others found the direct route at the top tough for the grade. I kept poking these tiny little crimpy things and hopping from foot to foot convinced there was going to be some magic point of balance that would suddenly unlock an easy sequence. In the end I went left on the arete: much more manageable.
 
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βeta: A great climb with solid holds all the way up to that last section, but boy, am I relieved to see others found the direct route at the top tough for the grade. I kept poking these tiny little crimpy things and hopping from foot to foot convinced there was going to be some magic point of balance that would suddenly unlock an easy sequence. In the end I went left on the arete: much more manageable.
Wilbur 7 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: in that case maybe the route description should be changed and it should be a 6a. Otherwise a bit of a pointless eliminate..
βeta?
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βeta: in that case maybe the route description should be changed and it should be a 6a. Otherwise a bit of a pointless eliminate..
Richard Horn 1 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Why would you not use the arete? You can easily reach the lower off with your right hand with your left hand round the arete, so you are hardly off route by using it.
βeta?
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βeta: Why would you not use the arete? You can easily reach the lower off with your right hand with your left hand round the arete, so you are hardly off route by using it.
a_radiohead_fan 1 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: did return to roissy and toe the line and this route had the hardest finish (in fact i fell off twice before i finally clipped the bolts). it is not 6a+ staying right. have no idea what the grade is but it is nails. maybe it was cos it was first route of the day who knows but definately stiff for the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: did return to roissy and toe the line and this route had the hardest finish (in fact i fell off twice before i finally clipped the bolts). it is not 6a+ staying right. have no idea what the grade is but it is nails. maybe it was cos it was first route of the day who knows but definately stiff for the grade.
Fidget 8 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Can't comment on how hard the top section is, as I couldn't even get to the third bolt!
βeta?
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βeta: Can't comment on how hard the top section is, as I couldn't even get to the third bolt!
robbelbin 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route is more like 6b by staying right and not using left arete (only 1 move though) well worth doing I climbed it on 7/6/05
βeta?
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βeta: great route is more like 6b by staying right and not using left arete (only 1 move though) well worth doing I climbed it on 7/6/05
Wilbur 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My god this is hard if you do it straight up the face. harder than any 6B i've ever tried...
βeta?
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βeta: My god this is hard if you do it straight up the face. harder than any 6B i've ever tried...
Matt_b 1 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves, not 6a+ staying on the centre at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice moves, not 6a+ staying on the centre at the top.
Richard Horn 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed right for the grade using the two small flakes just to the left of the arete approaching the top. The first is almost invisible due to the pattern of the rock. No need to go as far as the left as the crack though.
βeta?
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βeta: Seemed right for the grade using the two small flakes just to the left of the arete approaching the top. The first is almost invisible due to the pattern of the rock. No need to go as far as the left as the crack though.
Ewan 26 Aug, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Right of the arete at the top felt hard for 6a+, easier on the left as Don says. Overall a nice route
βeta?
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βeta: Right of the arete at the top felt hard for 6a+, easier on the left as Don says. Overall a nice route

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 108
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)
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