Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A good first lead with the hardest climbing at the start. Can be started on the left or right of the low overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 30/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Perrett 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Here's a laugh. Once you have climbed it a couple of times, try climbing this top roped but don't rest on the rope and only use ONE HAND all the way up. Great Fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Here's a laugh. Once you have climbed it a couple of times, try climbing this top roped but don't rest on the rope and only use ONE HAND all the way up. Great Fun.
Ewan 24 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: easier (more pleasant ?) climbing on the right of bolt line, harder on the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easier (more pleasant ?) climbing on the right of bolt line, harder on the left.

Logged Ascents

1453 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 62 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
Votes cast 111
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Loading Notifications...