The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Take the small bulge near the top on the left via a tiny seam. © Rockfax
FA. Neal Heanes 25/Jul/1992.
Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paul Sagar | 16 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section. |
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Lloyders | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves! | βeta? | |
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βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves! |
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nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them. | βeta? | |
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βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them. |
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John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs. |
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Ewan | 24 Jul, 2000 |
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βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)