Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A decent wall pitch, although the rock is a bit snappy. © Rockfax
FA. Damian Cook 09/Oct/1993.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Brizlgirl | 13 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Snappy lower down progressing to pulling whole handholds off higher up, even though being gentle. Feels like anything could come off in your hands past the 3rd bolt, and I broke a few more holds. The 2nd bolt is a bit of a krab breaker, just when you think you've got to safety. But the climbing is great. Would have felt safer with more bolts. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Snappy lower down progressing to pulling whole handholds off higher up, even though being gentle. Feels like anything could come off in your hands past the 3rd bolt, and I broke a few more holds. The 2nd bolt is a bit of a krab breaker, just when you think you've got to safety. But the climbing is great. Would have felt safer with more bolts. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
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Acid Jazz Disco
Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend North)