Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Quality climbing with a pocketed lower wall. © Rockfax
FA. Helen Heanes 04/Sep/1997.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Red Spot Portland 2016 , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon , Portland scheming , Thomas & Alex Portland Olympian Oct22
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 20 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Fierce pull over the roof, but a very delicate rockover are quite memorable | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fierce pull over the roof, but a very delicate rockover are quite memorable |
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| Alun | 7 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Worth doing for the balancy crux, however the rest of the route is merely okay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worth doing for the balancy crux, however the rest of the route is merely okay. |
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| Ben Stokes | 19 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a balancy crux and a lower wall that might leave you fishing for holds... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A nice contrasting pitch with a balancy crux and a lower wall that might leave you fishing for holds... |
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| AlexD | 20 Jul, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Go left when you get to the blank looking slab or you'll end up standing on a small ledge without any decent handholds and will have to do a very precarious step left around a smooth bulge before you can clip the next bolt. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Go left when you get to the blank looking slab or you'll end up standing on a small ledge without any decent handholds and will have to do a very precarious step left around a smooth bulge before you can clip the next bolt. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
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Ocean Drive
Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)