Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

23m.

Rockfax Description
An exciting route that looks like its name! The upper layback section takes a little working out. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 23/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think the name is excellent! Just move quickly on the layback section...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the name is excellent! Just move quickly on the layback section...
Jon Greengrass 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Hmmm i thought it easy upto the big layback flake which i didn't have enough puff for.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hmmm i thought it easy upto the big layback flake which i didn't have enough puff for.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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