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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
Pull out through the sometimes dusty initial overhangs to reach some fine flowstone wall climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 16 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Several of the lower bolts have been positioned i such a way that the krab in them will be bent over an edge if fallen on (I think it's bolts 1, 3, and 4). These really need threading with a short sling. The initial section through the roofs is also on soft, sandy rock and has deck-out potential if the wrong hold snaps. I found this one of the most worrying routes I've done on Portland. The climbing is quite good though.
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βeta: Several of the lower bolts have been positioned i such a way that the krab in them will be bent over an edge if fallen on (I think it's bolts 1, 3, and 4). These really need threading with a short sling. The initial section through the roofs is also on soft, sandy rock and has deck-out potential if the wrong hold snaps. I found this one of the most worrying routes I've done on Portland. The climbing is quite good though.
Filou 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really good climb. Bit dusty at the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good climb. Bit dusty at the start

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Born Again

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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