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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

16m.

Rockfax Description
Steep climbing on good rock. Climb up past chert bands to a sequency upper groove that requires a bit of a reach. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

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User Date Notes
steve taylor 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The steep, loose crack and fine flowstone groove to the right is "The Taylor Show" - 6a+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The steep, loose crack and fine flowstone groove to the right is "The Taylor Show" - 6a+.
steve taylor 18 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gary - what's the grade of Sellerfield
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gary - what's the grade of Sellerfield
steve taylor 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice, original description! Courtesy of NealH!!!
Show beta
βeta: Nice, original description! Courtesy of NealH!!!
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: kicked your ass then did it? rocks as good as anything else on Portland blind move to the rest below the bulge is a matter of luck not talent, and yes the upper groove is height dependant. However that does not detract from the climbing, just get mad
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: kicked your ass then did it? rocks as good as anything else on Portland blind move to the rest below the bulge is a matter of luck not talent, and yes the upper groove is height dependant. However that does not detract from the climbing, just get mad

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grossville

Grade: 7a+ ***
(The Promenade)

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