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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

16m.

Rockfax Description
A well regarded line. Take the steady lower wall to a fine bulge and upper crack. This is taken direct via a powerful reach. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes 02/Jul/1995.

Ticklists

Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomrainbow 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is a fanatstic pitch - don't walk by this one. One of the more balanced routes at the crag, it keeps you working right up to the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a fanatstic pitch - don't walk by this one. One of the more balanced routes at the crag, it keeps you working right up to the belay.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: what can i say I like it, originally climbing in the rain which made the top slab interesting, and followed by a shorter but very talented friend who shall remain nameless, cos he got spanked, if your less than 5'8" it probably alot harder than 7a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: what can i say I like it, originally climbing in the rain which made the top slab interesting, and followed by a shorter but very talented friend who shall remain nameless, cos he got spanked, if your less than 5'8" it probably alot harder than 7a

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Portland Heights

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor Central)

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