20m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Another vertical challenge taking a gritstone-like sequence up the ramp. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 23/Apr/1989.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Portland, Portland 7a/+, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jus | 5 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Hard to do those bouldery moves on the ramp when you're pumped stupid and the rock is damp, even with the big rest! The fingery shelly stuff just above is tricky but your feet are solid. It felt hard for 7a, but it was the end of the day - so 7a is probably right. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard to do those bouldery moves on the ramp when you're pumped stupid and the rock is damp, even with the big rest! The fingery shelly stuff just above is tricky but your feet are solid. It felt hard for 7a, but it was the end of the day - so 7a is probably right. |
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| Ben Thorne | 2 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Agree with Goi. Found fingering through the shells above the rock-over incredibly hard. To the point at which I still haven't found the best sequence for me. I'm 5'8" by the way. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with Goi. Found fingering through the shells above the rock-over incredibly hard. To the point at which I still haven't found the best sequence for me. I'm 5'8" by the way. |
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| Alan James - UKC and UKH | 31 Oct, 2000 |
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βeta: This route is a classic example of why you can't grade for the pure onsight. It is very easy to muck up and also easy to accidentally get right. If you get it right it really isn't that hard but while you are teetering on the little ramp you can muck it up and make it feel much harder. However it has to be graded for the climber getting it right on their onsight which the day I was there at least two people did and another two didn't. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: This route is a classic example of why you can't grade for the pure onsight. It is very easy to muck up and also easy to accidentally get right. If you get it right it really isn't that hard but while you are teetering on the little ramp you can muck it up and make it feel much harder. However it has to be graded for the climber getting it right on their onsight which the day I was there at least two people did and another two didn't. |
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| tomrainbow | 14 Sep, 2000 |
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βeta: I might have mucked up the sequence, but this seemed very hard for 7a - it felt 7a to the crux and then got harder! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: I might have mucked up the sequence, but this seemed very hard for 7a - it felt 7a to the crux and then got harder! |
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Route of Interest
Medusa Falls
Grade: 7a ***(Blacknor South)