Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Take the easy flake to a hard pull to gain an unrestful groove. Swing right below the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 12/Jun/1994.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An absolute class route. Worth making the 3rd clip and downclimbing to the hands-off rest before committing. There's a very good rest below the top roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An absolute class route. Worth making the 3rd clip and downclimbing to the hands-off rest before committing. There's a very good rest below the top roof.
John Alcock 4 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Vicious fingery 6a move on the crux, but it's just above jugs and right next to gear so it's well worth persevering. Tough for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Vicious fingery 6a move on the crux, but it's just above jugs and right next to gear so it's well worth persevering. Tough for the grade.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 15 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Rain

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Winspit)

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