Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A very good route taking in some unlikely climbing and with a sting in the tail. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 28/May/1993.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Stokes | 23 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found a new sequence (for me) the other day that isn't reachy, doesn't require pulling on that nasty, sharp pocket/sidepull, and providing you've got a good pair of edging boots, no harder. Of course I wouldn't want to ruin anyone's onsight by posting the beta on here ;o) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found a new sequence (for me) the other day that isn't reachy, doesn't require pulling on that nasty, sharp pocket/sidepull, and providing you've got a good pair of edging boots, no harder. Of course I wouldn't want to ruin anyone's onsight by posting the beta on here ;o) |
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| Ben Stokes | 1 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I presume you are referring to the very sharp one/two finger sidepull. I remember a poor flowstone pinch for the left hand, bringing my right hand in from the sharp sidepull to a poor edge, reaching left to a sloping (l)edge and rocking over rightwards. No originality from me: I copied Gav, Woody and Neal on this one! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I presume you are referring to the very sharp one/two finger sidepull. I remember a poor flowstone pinch for the left hand, bringing my right hand in from the sharp sidepull to a poor edge, reaching left to a sloping (l)edge and rocking over rightwards. No originality from me: I copied Gav, Woody and Neal on this one! |
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| Ben Stokes | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: No, definitely on route and definitely not reachy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No, definitely on route and definitely not reachy. |
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| Ben Stokes | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not if you go left a little... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not if you go left a little... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Wax Museum
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Coastguard North)