UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
A very good route taking in some unlikely climbing and with a sting in the tail. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 28/May/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 23 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I found a new sequence (for me) the other day that isn't reachy, doesn't require pulling on that nasty, sharp pocket/sidepull, and providing you've got a good pair of edging boots, no harder. Of course I wouldn't want to ruin anyone's onsight by posting the beta on here ;o)
βeta?
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βeta: I found a new sequence (for me) the other day that isn't reachy, doesn't require pulling on that nasty, sharp pocket/sidepull, and providing you've got a good pair of edging boots, no harder. Of course I wouldn't want to ruin anyone's onsight by posting the beta on here ;o)
Ben Stokes 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I presume you are referring to the very sharp one/two finger sidepull. I remember a poor flowstone pinch for the left hand, bringing my right hand in from the sharp sidepull to a poor edge, reaching left to a sloping (l)edge and rocking over rightwards. No originality from me: I copied Gav, Woody and Neal on this one!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I presume you are referring to the very sharp one/two finger sidepull. I remember a poor flowstone pinch for the left hand, bringing my right hand in from the sharp sidepull to a poor edge, reaching left to a sloping (l)edge and rocking over rightwards. No originality from me: I copied Gav, Woody and Neal on this one!
JIMBO 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What did you use? The largeish ledge up and left I cannot span to from the sidepull on the buldge. I didn't see much between, have I missed a hold then?
βeta?
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βeta: What did you use? The largeish ledge up and left I cannot span to from the sidepull on the buldge. I didn't see much between, have I missed a hold then?
Ben Stokes 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: No, definitely on route and definitely not reachy.
βeta?
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βeta: No, definitely on route and definitely not reachy.
JIMBO 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Might be a little left to you but its either too far left or off route for me...
βeta?
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βeta: Might be a little left to you but its either too far left or off route for me...
Ben Stokes 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not if you go left a little...
βeta?
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βeta: Not if you go left a little...
JIMBO 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The sting is if you are short! - Last buldge has a looooooong reach on it...
βeta?
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βeta: The sting is if you are short! - Last buldge has a looooooong reach on it...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wax Museum

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Coastguard North)
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