Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
FA. Nic Hellyer 19/Oct/1996.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| richgac | 4 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Disjointed and with hard moves (through the overhang) for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Disjointed and with hard moves (through the overhang) for the grade. |
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| Nic | 30 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The ledge is most definitely IN - leaving it out ( or "leavin' it aht!" as we say in London) would make it about 7c...The bolt here is a little too far to the right, but you can clip it from above if you really need to! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The ledge is most definitely IN - leaving it out ( or "leavin' it aht!" as we say in London) would make it about 7c...The bolt here is a little too far to the right, but you can clip it from above if you really need to! |
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| nealh | 29 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: nic, finally did this this summer, lower crux is fine but wasn't sure whether ledge left of arete was on route, as avoiding this would be proper hard and a little contrived, enjoyed the route though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: nic, finally did this this summer, lower crux is fine but wasn't sure whether ledge left of arete was on route, as avoiding this would be proper hard and a little contrived, enjoyed the route though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Judge Jeffreys
Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Edge)