Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
FA. Nigel Coe 13/May/1989.
Ticklists
Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wilbur | 1 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Took one look at this pile and decided to warm-up on Spare the Fern instead. Obviously if it wasn't bolted it would be a classic 3 star trad route with a queue of people waiting to do it.. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Took one look at this pile and decided to warm-up on Spare the Fern instead. Obviously if it wasn't bolted it would be a classic 3 star trad route with a queue of people waiting to do it.. |
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| steve taylor | 31 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Both Desireless and Good Lay have been retroed, neither of them with FA permission. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Both Desireless and Good Lay have been retroed, neither of them with FA permission. |
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| Nic | 31 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Has this now been retro'ed? With Martin's permission? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Has this now been retro'ed? With Martin's permission? |
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| steve taylor | 29 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: No it's not - it's called Good Lay and was climbed on trad by Martin Crocker in 1989 at E3 6a. Nice climbing though... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No it's not - it's called Good Lay and was climbed on trad by Martin Crocker in 1989 at E3 6a. Nice climbing though... |
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| Richard Horn | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Didnt think it was that bad. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didnt think it was that bad. |
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| viking | 1 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: i completely agree - it's not that good and you would do better to warm up on sper the fern, the next route along | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i completely agree - it's not that good and you would do better to warm up on sper the fern, the next route along |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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